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Chorvátske vianočné kulinárske kúzlo

Napísal Chorvátske turistické združenie 21. december 2023

V mnohých krajinách sveta sa už o niekoľko dní pri vianočnom stole zídu rodiny a priatelia. Nebude tomu inak ani v Chorvátsku, kde k sviatočnej nálade prispeje prepychovo ozdobený stôl, a na ňom štedrá hostina. 

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Zdroj @CNTB Anica Pecanic

Sviatočná hostina pre zmysly

Chorvátsko je krajina, kde sa môžete dobre najesť po celý rok, no na Vianoce môžete zažiť skutočné gastronomické kúzla, ktoré nenechajú nikoho ľahostajným. Podľa tradície sa v Chorvátsku na Štedrý večer neje mäso. Hlavnú úlohu preto zohrávajú ryby, najmä treska, po chorvátsky bakalar. Pripravuje sa červený alebo biely, konzumuje sa lyžičkou alebo natiera na chlieb a pripravuje sa na mnoho spôsobov od Istrie a Kvarneru cez Dalmáciu až po Záhreb. Dalmatínci pripravujú bakalar na uje, tresku varenú na bielo so zemiakmi, hojne ochutenú olivovým olejom, cesnakom a nadrobno nasekanou petržlenovou vňaťou.

Ryba sa marinuje aspoň 24 hodín, často aj dva alebo tri dni, aby zmäkla, a potom sa z nej varí lahodný červený brudet, akýsi rybí guláš. V istrijskej a pobrežnej verzii sa vyrába aj biela treska (in bianco) ako paštéta s prídavkom cesnaku a olivového oleja, prednostne natieraná na voňavý, čerstvo upečený chlieb. Tradičným istrijským jedlom pripravovaným počas pôstu sú aj pastuti alebo cestoviny nakrájané na štvorce, zaliate horúcim olivovým olejom a osolenými sardinkami alebo podávané s treskou na bielo. Na Štedrý večer budú ostrovania jesť brujet (polievku) z úhora s paradajkami alebo chobotnicu pečenú v rúre so zemiakmi, a Slavónčania pripravia známy perkelt zo šťuky s množstvom cibule, feferónky, paradajok a domáceho tuku. V Šokadiji vo východnom Slavónsku staré zvyky diktujú jesť suve sćuke alebo sušenú šťuku, vyrobenú z najkrajších exemplárov ulovených počas roka.

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Bakalar a Brujet, zdroj @CNTB Anica Pecanic

Určite sa vám zbehli slinky už pri vymenovaní štedrovečerných pochúťok, na samotné Vianoce však v Chorvátsku jedia ešte honosnejšie! Dalmácia na Vianoce vonia pašticadou. Hoci každý tvrdí, že ten ich recept je najlepší, pretože je vyrobený podľa originálnej receptúry starej aj stáročia, spôsob prípravy sa na celom Jadrane líši. Je to hovädzie mäso, ktoré niektorí varia v prošeku, iní vo víne s cukrom a na vrch sa dáva panceta, cesnak, mrkva, zeler a klinčeky. Sušené slivky dodávajú omáčke osobitnú vôňu a hustotu. K tomu všetkému samozrejme patria domáce njoki (akýsi druh halušiek), o ktorých je známe, že tie, ktoré vyrábajú dalmatínske a istrijské mníšky, sú najlepšie na svete.

Oblasť Gorski Kotar si pochutnáva na moriakovi s lokšami, v chorvátčine mlinci, rovnako ako Záhreb a severný Jadran. Dokonalý pečený moriak si vyžaduje roky skúseností a sviatočného pečenia. K nemu nesmie chýbať lahodná plnka, akou je napríklad tá z kociek kukuričného chleba, cibule, jablka, zeleru, cesnaku, kuracej pečene a petržlenu, no faktom je, že chorvátske morky sú kŕmené jačmeňom, gaštanmi a vlašskými orechmi, a to ich robí takými výnimočnými. V Slavónii je obľúbené pečené prasiatko, jeho koža musí byť chrumkavá a mäso sa musí rozplývať v ústach. Jedáva sa, samozrejme, so slávnym francúzskym šalátom, ktorý poznáme aj u nás ako zemiakový šalát.

regióne Međimurje na Vianoce nesmie zo stola chýbať pečená kačica, a ako všetky svoje pečené mäsá, aj kačice Međimurčania plnia pohánkovou kašou. V Like sú zas verní varenému bravčovému mäsu s varenou kapustnicou, a vôňa jedla sarma, plnených kyslých kapustových listov, sa šíri zo sviatočných stolov v každom kúte Chorvátska.

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Pečená kačica, zdroj @CNTB Anica Pecanic

No a po bohatej večeri nesmú chýbať ani tradičné vianočné sladkosti – roščići (vianočné rožky), linzeri (linecké pečivo), čupavci (kokosové kocky), biskupski kruh (biskupský chlebíček), orahnjača i makovnjača (orechový a makový závin), oblatne (plnené oblátky), mačje oči (zákusok plnený banánom), ani kiflice (rožky). Hviezdičky a srdiečka plnené lekvárom tiež tradične patria na sviatočný stôl, ako aj sušienky v tvare vianočného stromčeka prekryté marcipánom a ozdobené cukrovými perličkami, a k ​​vianočným raňajkám sa podáva sviatočný tvarohový kuglof (bábovka).

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Vianočné sladkosti, zdroj @CNTB Anica Pecanic

Od Istrie na severozápade po Konavle na juhovýchode nájdete obľúbenú kroštulu (cesto, ktoré sa najčastejšie „viaže“ do mašle, vyprážané na oleji a posypané práškovým cukrom), fritulu ( malé guľôčky z kysnutého cesta s hrozienkami, opraženým olejom a posypané cukrom), pandišpanj (sušienka obohatená o prosecco a kandizované citrusy), paprenjak (tvrdé sušienky s medom a korením), bobić (guličky z mandlí a práškového cukru) a arancina (sušená pomarančová kôra naložená v cukrovej vode, obalená v kryštálovom cukri).

Ďalšou obľúbenou sladkosťou v chorvátskom prímorí je smokvenjak, čo je koláč vyrobený zo sušených fíg, s prídavkom vlašských orechov alebo mandlí a rôznych korenín. Ostrov Vis je známy smokvenjakom, ktorý obyvatelia nazývajú hib alebo hljeb a pridávajú sa doň nahrubo nasekané mandle, sušený aníz a bylinky. Hib sa potom suší na vetre bura alebo v peci. Figy sa tradične podávajú s travaricou alebo rôznymi likérmi.

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Smokvenjak, zdroj @CNTB Anica Pecanic

Čím sa dostávame k ďalšej dôležitej položke, ktorá nesmie chýbať z vianočného stola v Chorvátsku, a to k vínam, o ktoré v Chorvátsku naozaj nie je núdza, a ktoré pútajú čoraz väčšiu pozornosť. Každý región má aspoň jednu odrodu, ktorú si mimoriadne váži, a tie najlepšie z chorvátskych vín sa dostávajú na stôl práve v najkrajší sviatok roka.

Počas sviatočného obdobia v Chorvátsku sa jedálenský stôl mení na gobelín bohatého kultúrneho dedičstva a kulinárskych špecialít. Vianočnú atmosféru cítiť v každom súste lahodných chutí, ktoré definujú toto radostné obdobie. Jedinečné jedlá, ktoré počas sviatkov zdobia chorvátske stoly, však neposkytujú len vynikajúce chute, ale zároveň ponoria do kultúrneho zážitku, ktorý sa dedí z generácie na generáciu.

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